Almost nobody fits a dress straight off the rack. The length is right for someone taller, the waist gapes, a strap slides off the shoulder, or the zipper gives up the week before the event. Dress alterations fix most of that, and a well-altered dress looks like it was made for you rather than borrowed.
This guide covers the dresses we see most at our Mesa counter: bridesmaid dresses, prom and formal gowns, and the everyday dresses people wear to work, church and dinner. It explains what can realistically be changed, what is hard or impossible, what to bring to a fitting and when to start.
Wedding gowns are their own topic with their own timeline; we cover those in a separate guide linked below.
Contents
Key takeaways
- Dress alterations work through existing seams, darts and hems, so taking a dress in is usually easier than letting it out.
- Mark the hem while wearing the exact shoes and undergarments you will wear with the dress; a different heel changes the length.
- Layered chiffon and tulle skirts are hemmed layer by layer, which is why a floor-length bridesmaid dress is more work than a single-layer skirt.
- Beads, sequins or lace at the hem have to be removed and re-attached, so those hems take noticeably longer than a plain one.
- Shoulders, necklines and a dress that is far too small are the hardest areas to change; buy for the largest part of your body and take in the rest.
What are dress alterations?
Dress alterations are changes made to a finished dress so it fits the person wearing it. The most common are shortening the hem, taking in the side seams or bodice, adjusting straps and replacing a broken zipper. They can also include small repairs, like re-securing a seam that split on the dance floor.
Alterations are different from making a dress from scratch. A tailor or seamstress works with what is already there: the existing seams, the fabric tucked inside them and the hem allowance. That is the main limit on what can be done, and it is why the same request can be simple on one dress and impossible on another.
Common changes and how involved they are
Here is how the most common requests compare. “How involved” is a general guide; the fabric, lining and any beading change the picture on every dress.
| Change | What it fixes | How involved | Things that make it harder |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hem (shorten) | Too long, dragging, tripping hazard | Simple on a single layer | Several layers, lace or beaded edges, a curved or high-low hem |
| Take in side seams | Loose at the waist or hips | Moderate | A zipper in the side seam, boning, a lining, a pattern that must match |
| Take in bodice | Gaping at the bust or back | Moderate to involved | Beading, lace appliqués, a structured or boned bodice |
| Shorten straps | Straps slipping, bodice sitting low | Usually simple | Straps sewn into a finished back or decorated with trim |
| Replace zipper | Broken, split or stuck zipper | Moderate | Invisible zippers in delicate fabric, beaded seams |
| Let out | Too tight | Depends entirely on the seam allowance | Narrow or trimmed seam allowances, visible old stitch lines |
That last row matters. The Oregon State University Extension fact sheet on plain seams and seam finishes gives the standard home-sewing seam allowance as 5/8 inch and notes it is sometimes trimmed narrower after stitching. Mass-produced dresses often leave far less fabric than that inside the seam, so there may be little or nothing to let out. If your dress is too tight, call and ask whether it can be let out before you buy the wrong size in the hope that it can.
Bridesmaid dress alterations
Bridesmaid dress alterations have one extra challenge: several dresses need to look right standing in a row. The hems should sit at a similar height from the floor in the shoes everyone will wear, even though the bridesmaids are different heights.
A few things we see often:
- Chiffon layers. Many bridesmaid dresses have a chiffon outer skirt over a lining. Each layer is hemmed separately. Nancy’s Notions’ guide to hemming formal dresses suggests pinning the bottom layer first and working outward, and notes that tulle layers can often be cut to length rather than hemmed.
- The hem allowance on flowing skirts. Oregon State’s hemming skills fact sheet notes that flared or circular hems may be as narrow as 1/4 inch, rolled and stitched. That fine rolled edge is what gives chiffon its light finish, and it is part of why redoing it takes care.
- Straps and bust. Adjustable straps are easy; sewn-in straps can usually be shortened. A bodice that gapes at the bust can often be taken in at the side seams.
- Timing across a group. Dresses ordered online can arrive at different times. Book fittings as soon as each dress arrives rather than waiting for the whole group.
If the bride is also having her gown fitted, our guide to wedding dress alterations covers bustles, trains and the multiple fittings a wedding gown usually needs.
Prom and formal dresses
Prom dress alterations in the East Valley bunch up in spring, when a lot of formal dresses come through the door at the same time. The earlier a dress is in for its first fitting, the more room everyone has to get it right.
Formal dresses bring a few specific issues:
- Beaded or sequinned hems. The trim has to be taken off along the hemline, the hem shortened, and the trim sewn back on. It is slow, careful work.
- High-low and curved hems. These have to be re-shaped along the whole curve, not just cut straight across.
- Stretch and mesh. Jersey and power mesh need a stitch that stretches, or the seam will pop when you sit down.
- Heels decided late. A formal hem is only as good as the shoes it was pinned in. If the shoes change after the fitting, the length changes too.
After the event, the dress usually needs cleaning before it goes into a closet. If it is a gown with glued beading or delicate trim, the same checks we describe in our post on wedding dress cleaning apply to a prom or formal dress: tell the cleaner where the spills happened and ask how the trim will be handled.
Everyday dresses
Not every alteration is for an event. A lot of the dress alterations we handle are for dresses people wear every week: a work dress that is too long for flats, a sundress that gapes at the back, a knit dress that has stretched at the waist, or a favourite dress with a split zipper.
These are often the most satisfying jobs, because a simple hem or a take-in at the side seams turns a dress you avoid into one you reach for. If you have trousers that need the same attention, our guide to pants alterations covers hems, waists and what a good fitting looks like for those.
How to take in a dress at home, and when not to
If the dress is a simple, unlined style with plain side seams, taking it in yourself is a reasonable project:
1. Turn the dress inside out and put it on, or have someone help you. 2. Pin along each side seam, removing the same amount on both sides so the dress stays balanced. 3. Taper the new line smoothly back into the original seam above and below the area you are taking in, so there is no sudden corner. 4. Take it off, mark the pinned line with chalk, and machine-stitch just inside it. 5. Try it on before you trim anything. Once the seam allowance is cut away, it cannot be let back out. 6. Finish the edge with a zigzag or serger, then press the seam.
For a hem, the same Oregon State hemming sheet recommends marking the hemline while wearing the same shoes and undergarments you will wear with the dress, and says skirts and dresses generally have a 2- to 3-inch hem, with flared hems narrower.
When not to try it at home:
- The zipper sits in the side seam you want to take in.
- The dress is lined, boned or has a built-in bra.
- There is beading, sequins or lace across the seam.
- The fabric is silk, satin or velvet, which can show every needle hole and press mark.
- The dress needs more than a small change, or the event is close.
What to bring to your fitting
A fitting is only as accurate as what you wear to it. Bring:
- The shoes you will wear with the dress, the actual pair.
- The undergarments you will wear: the bra, shapewear or slip. They change how the bodice and waist sit.
- The dress itself, pressed if possible, so we are pinning the true length rather than a crease.
- Any accessories that affect fit, like a belt or a wrap.
- The event date, so we can tell you honestly whether the work fits the time available.
Stand naturally with your weight on both feet during pinning. Standing extra straight or leaning to look in the mirror shifts the hem.
When to hand it to a professional
Most dress alterations beyond a simple hem are worth handing over: layered or beaded hems, bodice work, lined dresses, zippers in delicate fabric and anything for an event where the fit has to be right on the day.
Our alterations and repairs service covers hems, zippers, taking in, and wedding and formal alterations. We pin the dress on you, explain what can change and what can’t, and tell you straight away if something is not realistic for your dress. For anything less common, such as letting out, adding straps or reworking a neckline, call and ask whether your dress can be altered that way before you plan around it.
The bottom line
Good dress alterations start with realistic expectations: taking in and shortening are usually straightforward, letting out depends on hidden fabric, and shoulders and necklines are the hardest to change. Bring the right shoes and undergarments, and come in early.
If you are in Mesa or the East Valley, call us at (480) 969-9982 to talk through your dress or arrange a fitting at 1911 E Brown Rd, Unit 1. We are open Monday to Friday 8 to 6 and Saturday 9 to 3. For cleaning that doesn’t need a fitting, the 24-hour drop-off box outside the store and East Valley pickup and delivery on Wednesdays and Fridays, scheduled by phone, are there too.
Bipin Kanabar — Owner, Bartoli Cleaners & Laundry, serving Mesa since 1957.
Frequently asked questions
What are dress alterations?
Dress alterations are changes made to a finished dress so it fits the wearer properly. The most common are shortening the hem, taking in the side seams or bodice, shortening straps and replacing a broken zipper. They work within the dress’s existing seams and hem allowance, which is why taking a dress in is usually easier than letting it out.
Do dry cleaners typically do alterations?
Many dry cleaners do, but not all, so it is worth calling first. Some have a tailor or seamstress on staff, while others only take cleaning. At Bartoli Cleaners in Mesa, alterations and repairs are one of our core services, including hems, zippers, taking in, and wedding and formal alterations, alongside dry cleaning and laundry.
How do you take in a dress?
To take in a dress, turn it inside out, put it on, and pin the same amount along both side seams, tapering smoothly back into the original seam. Mark the line, stitch just inside it, and try the dress on before trimming anything. Lined, boned or beaded dresses, or ones with a zipper in the side seam, are better taken in by a professional.
When should I get my bridesmaid dress altered?
Book your first fitting as soon as the dress arrives rather than waiting until close to the wedding. Layered chiffon hems and bodice changes take time, and you may need a second fitting. Bring the shoes and undergarments you will wear on the day, and call to ask how the alterations schedule looks for your date.
Can a dress be let out?
Sometimes, but it depends on how much fabric is hidden inside the seams. Many ready-made dresses have narrow seam allowances, leaving little to let out, and an old stitch line can show on some fabrics. Shoulders, necklines and a dress that is much too small are the hardest to change. Call and ask whether your particular dress can be let out.
