Almost no wedding dress fits perfectly off the rack or out of the box. Gowns are made to standard sizes and ordered to your largest measurement, then shaped to you afterwards. That shaping is what wedding dress alterations are for, and it is why the dress you try on at the salon and the dress you walk down the aisle in can look quite different.
The part that catches people out is timing. Start too early and your measurements may change before the day. Start too late and there may not be time for the fittings a gown needs.
This guide covers when to start, what is usually altered, what is hard to change, what to bring to your fittings, bridesmaid dresses, and what to do with the dress after the wedding. The timelines are general guidance rather than fixed rules, because every dress and every alterations schedule is different.
Contents
Key takeaways
- Bridal designer Justin Alexander suggests a first fitting about eight to 12 weeks before the wedding.
- Maggie Sottero says brides typically have about three fittings, and that alterations typically take about six to eight weeks to complete.
- The hem, the bustle and the fit through the bust, waist and hips are the most common wedding dress alterations.
- Taking a dress in is usually easier than letting it out, because there is often little spare fabric in the seams.
- Wear your wedding shoes and wedding-day undergarments to every fitting; both change how the dress hangs and where the hem falls.
- After the wedding, have the gown cleaned promptly before it is stored, so stains do not have time to set.
When to start wedding dress alterations
Plan to have the dress in hand well before alterations begin, then book the fittings around the wedding date.
Bridal designers give broadly similar guidance. Justin Alexander suggests the first fitting should ideally be eight to 12 weeks before the wedding, and notes that popular wedding months see more demand for alterations. Maggie Sottero says brides typically have about three fittings, and that alterations typically take about six to eight weeks to complete.
Here is how that usually plays out. Treat it as a general outline, not a promise: a simple hem needs far less time than a gown being reshaped.
| Timing (general guidance) | What happens | Fitting |
|---|---|---|
| When the dress arrives | Try it on, check for damage, choose your shoes and undergarments, and book your alteration appointments | None yet |
| About 8 to 12 weeks before the wedding | Everything is pinned: hem, bustle, fit through the bust, waist and hips, straps or sleeves | First fitting |
| Several weeks later | Check the changes on the body and fine-tune anything that pulls, gapes or sits wrong | Second fitting |
| In the final weeks before the wedding | Final try-on with shoes, undergarments and veil; learn how to fasten the bustle | Final fitting |
| After the wedding | Cleaning and preservation | None |
Why not start earlier? Weight and shape can change in the months before a wedding, and alterations made too soon may need redoing. Why not later? Each fitting is a chance to catch a problem, and a gown with several layers needs time between them.
What is commonly altered
Most gowns need at least some of these.
The hem
Most wedding dresses come long, so nearly every gown needs hemming. The hem is set to your shoes so the front just clears the floor and you can walk without stepping on it. On a gown with several layers of skirt, each layer is hemmed separately and graded so they sit correctly together. The idea is the same as hemming trousers (our guide on shortening pants at home explains the basics), but on a gown it is far more involved.
The bustle
A bustle lifts the train off the floor after the ceremony so you can walk and dance. The main types:
- American (over) bustle. The train is lifted and hooked or buttoned to the outside of the dress at one or more points, creating soft drapes.
- French (under) bustle. The train is folded under and tied with ribbons on the inside, so the skirt looks layered from behind.
- Ballroom bustle. Several tie points under the skirt lift the train so the hem looks level all round, like a ball gown.
The right choice depends on the fabric, the length of the train and the weight of the skirt. Heavy trains need more attachment points.
Taking in and letting out
Taking in the side seams, bust and waist is one of the most common changes, because gowns are ordered to the largest measurement. Letting out is more limited, as explained below.
Straps and sleeves
Straps can be shortened, and sometimes added to a strapless gown for support. Sleeves can be shortened, taken in or removed, and on some dresses sheer sleeves or lining can be added or taken away.
Cups and bust support
Bra cups can be sewn in, moved or removed so you do not need a separate bra. The bodice can be reshaped so it sits flat without gaping when you move.
What is hard to change
A skilled alterations tailor can do a lot, but some changes are limited by how the dress was made:
- Letting out. Many gowns have little seam allowance. Maggie Sottero explains that dresses are sized to your largest measurement because it is easier to remove fabric than to add it. Where letting out is not possible, a corset-style back or added panel is sometimes an option.
- Changing the silhouette. Justin Alexander notes that a seamstress will not usually turn an A-line dress into a mermaid. Necklines and sleeves can often be adjusted; the whole shape of the skirt usually cannot.
- Lace and beaded hems. A scalloped lace edge cannot simply be cut and folded. The lace is often removed and reapplied at the new length, or the gown is shortened from the waist instead.
- Heavy beading and embellishment. Beads have to be removed from the seam area and sewn back on by hand afterwards.
- Very delicate fabrics. Silk and some satins show old needle holes, so there is less room to change your mind once they are sewn.
What to bring to your fittings
The single most useful thing you can bring to a fitting is the shoes you will wear on the day. Even a small difference in heel height moves the hem. Oregon State University Extension’s hemming guide gives the same advice for any skirt or dress: mark the hem while wearing the same shoes and undergarments you will wear with the garment.
Bring or wear:
- Your wedding shoes, to every fitting.
- The undergarments you will wear on the day: bra, shapewear, slip or petticoat. They change the fit through the bodice and how the skirt falls.
- Jewelry and veil, at least to the later fittings, so you can see the whole look.
- The person who will bustle your dress, to the final fitting, so they learn how it works before the day.
If your plans change between fittings, such as different shoes or a different bra, tell your tailor straight away.
Bridesmaid dress alterations
Bridesmaid dress alterations follow the same rules on a smaller scale. The most common changes are hems, taking in the sides, and shortening straps.
A few things make bridesmaid dresses easier to coordinate:
- Agree on shoes early. If everyone wears a similar heel height, the hems can be set to a matching length for photos.
- Book fittings in good time. Bridesmaids often live in different places, so arrange fittings well ahead of the wedding.
- Chiffon and lined skirts usually have two layers, and both need hemming so the lining does not peek out.
Groomsmen’s trousers and suits can often be altered at the same time. Our post on suit alterations covers what can and cannot be changed.
After the wedding: cleaning and preservation
Once the day is over, the dress will almost certainly have makeup near the neckline, a dirty hem and perhaps a drink spill or two, even if you cannot see them yet. Sugary drinks can dry clear and turn brown over time.
Have the gown cleaned soon rather than leaving it in a bag in the closet. Our guide on how to clean a wedding dress explains what is involved, and our post on wedding dress preservation covers why timing matters for storing it long term.
Planning your fittings with us
We handle wedding dress alterations, including hems, taking in and formalwear, as part of our alterations and repairs service. Wedding gown cleaning is part of our specialty cleaning, so the same dress can come back to us after the wedding.
Every gown is different, so we do not give fixed turnaround times here. Call us once you have your dress and your wedding date, and we will plan your fittings around it. Bring your shoes and undergarments to the first appointment.
The bottom line
Good wedding dress alterations come down to planning. Have the dress early, book the first fitting around eight to 12 weeks out as bridal designers suggest, plan on about three fittings, and wear your wedding shoes and undergarments every time. Know what is easy to change (hem, taking in, straps, bustle) and what is not (letting out, silhouette, lace hems).
To plan your fittings, call us on (480) 969-9982 or visit the store at 1911 E Brown Rd, Unit 1, Mesa, Monday to Friday 8 to 6 and Saturday 9 to 3. For the cleaning afterwards, there is a 24-hour drop-off box outside the store, and East Valley pickup and delivery runs on Wednesdays and Fridays, scheduled by phone.
Bipin Kanabar — Owner, Bartoli Cleaners & Laundry, serving Mesa since 1957.
Frequently asked questions
When should a wedding dress be altered?
A wedding dress should usually be altered starting about eight to 12 weeks before the wedding, which is when bridal designer Justin Alexander suggests the first fitting. That leaves time for about three fittings without starting so early that your measurements change. Have the dress in hand before then, and call your tailor to book the fittings.
How long do wedding dress alterations take?
Wedding dress alterations typically take about six to eight weeks to complete, according to bridal designer Maggie Sottero, spread across several fittings. A simple hem takes much less time; a gown with layers, lace or beading takes more. Treat these as general guidance, and confirm the schedule with whoever is altering your dress.
How many fittings do you need for a wedding dress?
Most brides need about three fittings. The first is for pinning the hem, bustle and fit, the second checks and refines the changes, and the final fitting is a full try-on with shoes, undergarments and veil. A gown that needs only a hem may need fewer; one being reshaped may need more.
What should I bring to a wedding dress fitting?
Bring the shoes and undergarments you will wear on the wedding day to every fitting, because both affect the fit and the hem. Bring jewelry and your veil to later fittings to see the full look, and bring whoever will fasten your bustle to the final fitting so they can practise.
Can a wedding dress be let out if it is too small?
Sometimes, but letting a wedding dress out is much harder than taking it in. Many gowns have very little spare fabric in the seams, which is why they are sized to your largest measurement. Where seams cannot be let out, a corset-style back or an added panel is sometimes possible. Ask before you buy a size down.
